The Hidden History of American Fashion
Rediscovering 20th-century Women Designers
Nancy Deihl (Redaktør)
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From one of America's first couturiers, Jessie Franklin Turner, to Zelda Wynn Valdes, the book captures the lost histories of the luminaries who paved the way in the world of American fashion design.
This fully illustrated collection takes us from Hollywood to Broadway, from sportswear to sustainable fashion, and explores important crossovers between film, theater, and fashion. Uncovering fascinating histories of the design pioneers we should know about, the book enlarges the prevailing narrative of fashion history and will be an important reference for fashion students, historians, costume curators, and fashion enthusiasts alike.
List of Illustrations
List of Contributors
Introduction, Nancy Deihl
I. Design Innovators
1. Jessie Franklin Turner: An Intimate Affair, Jan Glier Reeder
2. Virginia Woods Bellamy: The Poet as Knitter, Ann W. Braaten and Susan M. Strawn
3. Tina Leser: Global Vision, April Calahan
4. Sandra Garratt: Modular Clothing, Daniel James Cole
II. Developing an Industry
5. Marion McCoy and Pauline Fracchia: Mid-20th-century Originators, Jean L. Parsons and Sara B. Marcketti
6. Fira Benenson: The People's Countess, Michael Mamp
7. Helen Lee and Suzanne Godart: Chic For Children, Jennifer Farley Gordon and Sara B. Marcketti
8. Nicki "Catherine Scott" Ladany: Chicago's Empress of Fashion, Adam MacPharlain
9. Jean Wright: the "real" Lilli Ann, Hannah Schiff
10. Mollie Parnis: Tastemaker, Annette Becker
11. Elizabeth "Libby" Payne: Designing for Mrs. Main Street America, Caroline A. Surrarrer and Catherine Amoroso Leslie
12. Ruth Finley's Fashion Calendar, Natalie Nudell
III. Hollywood, Broadway, and Seventh Avenue
13. Viola Dimmitt: Los Angeles Entrepreneur, Shelly Foote
14. Kiviette: Star Performer, Dilia Lopez-Gydosh
15. Zelda Wynn Valdes: Uptown Modiste, Nancy Deihl
16. Vicky Tiel: A Couturiere in Paris, Lourdes Font
This is the first in-depth consideration of the first generation of revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years, yet who have been largely forgotten from fashion history.