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The Anthropology of Dress and Fashion

A Reader

Brent Luvaas (Redaktør) ; Joanne B. Eicher (Redaktør)

The Anthropology of Dress and Fashion

Anthropologists have examined how diverse human populations modify and dress their bodies since the earliest days of the discipline. Les mer
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The Anthropology of Dress and Fashion

Anthropologists have examined how diverse human populations modify and dress their bodies since the earliest days of the discipline. The Anthropology of Dress and Fashion: A Reader is the first authoritative anthology of the seminal writings of anthropologists studying clothing and fashion. From classic ethnographies of dress to cutting-edge contemporary research tracing the global circulation of clothing today, this comprehensive volume maps out this vibrant field of study's shifting preoccupations, theoretical innovations, and traditional and experimental methodologies.

Comprised of over 40 curated extracts from the work of leading international scholars from Jonathan Friedman to Katherine Frank, the reader is divided into themed sections, each with an introduction and guide to further reading. With each extract introduced and contextualised, the reader will be an essential resource for students and scholars of fashion studies, social and cultural anthropology, material culture, sociology and related fields.

Acknowledgments

Introduction
Brent Luvaas and Joanne B. Eicher

Part 1: Classic Works in the Anthropology of Dress and Fashion
Preface

1. The Principle of Order in Civilization as Exemplified by Changes in Fashion
A.L. Kroeber

2. Customs and Beliefs: Ceremonial
Alfred R. Radcliffe-Brown

3. Dress
Ruth Benedict

4. Fashion
Edward Sapir

5. Dress: Its Origins, Forms, and Psychology, with Special Emphasis on the Sexual Psychology
A.E. Crawley

Part 2: Theorizing Dress and Fashion
Preface

1. Fashion -v- Anti-Fashion
Ted Polhemus

2. The Social Skin
Terence S. Turner

3. Clothing as Language: An Object Lesson in the Study of the Expressive Properties of Material Culture
Grant McCracken
4. Definition and Classification of Dress: Implications for Analysis of Gender Roles
Joanne B. Eicher & Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins

5. The Antisocial Skin: Structure, Resistance, and "Modern Primitive" Adornment in theUnited States
Daniel Rosenblatt

6. Style and Ontology
Daniel Miller

Part 3: Material Culture
Preface

1. The Other Half: The Material Culture of New Fibres
Kaori O'Connor

2. Cloth and Clothing
Jane Schneider

3. Jeanealogies: Materiality and the (Im)permanence of Relationships and Intimacy
Sophie Woodward

4. Wild Silk Textiles of the Dogon of Mali: The Production, Material Efficacy, and Cultural Significance of Sheen
Laurence Douny

5. Clothing sociality: Materiality and the everyday among the Kuna of Panama
Margherita Margiotti

Part 4: Dressing the Body in Culture
Preface

1. Kalabari Cut-Thread and Pulled-Thread Cloth
Tonye Victor Erekosima and Joanne B. Eicher

2. Cloth that Does Not Die: The Meaning of Cloth in Bunu Social Life
Elisha Renne

3. The Political Economy of Elegance: An African Cult of Beauty
Jonathan Friedman

4. The Predicament of Dress: Polyvalency and the Ironies of Cultural Identity
Deborah Durham

5. Body Talk: Revelations of Self and Body in Contemporary Strip Clubs
Katherine Frank

Part 5: Dressing the Colony, Fashioning the Nation
Preface

1. Dressing for Dinner in the Bush: Rituals of Self-Definition and British Imperial Authority
Helen Callaway

2. Fashioning the Colonial Subject
Jean Comaroff and John Comaroff

3. The Ao Dai Goes Global: How International Influences and Female Entrepreneurs Have Shaped Vietnam's "National Costume"

Fakta